I cooked Sunday roast – 2006 Timo Mayer Cabernet, Yarra Valley, Australia

May 29, 2011

As you know I am not much of a cook. But today I cooked a traditional Sunday roast. I am so proud. I did it. Not that it was particularly difficult. Actually I just seasoned the meat, put it into the oven for 60 minutes, and voila there was a delicious meal.

This called for a special wine, and a special wine we had. I choose a ‘2006 Cabernet’ from the Mayer Vineyard, made by my old friend Timo Mayer in the Yarra Valley. Timo is one of the famous South Pack, a group of young and creative wine-makers in Victoria.

This is a beautiful wine, full of red berry flavour, a good structure and a long finish. The cherries on my palate were almost like the ones of a Merlot, but it is a straight Cabernet, amazing.

Great colour

The roast was just perfect with its pink colour. It was Thai beef of a very good quality. As were the other ingredients by the way. The girls made a Yorkshire pudding. Moreover we had broccoli and carrots as vegetables.

The roast

Delicious Sunday lunch

Great vegetables

From here it was downhill all the way. First came my favourite cigar, then came the port. I just love Sundays like this.


Lunch at Spring Farm 春天農場 in Taoyuan, Taiwan

May 28, 2011

Goodness me, a week has past and I had no time to produce a single post. That must have been a busy week. Every evening is was flat out tired, and had just enough energy for a family meal, a glass of wine, and bed.

Another Saturday, another chance to prepare some of the photos which I took while on Taiwan for stories on food. I have so much material I do not know where to start. And on Wednesday I am on another busyness trip which will take me to Manila,which has a great cuisine, and Beijing. I guess there are some culinary delights in the making.

Well, but let’s get to Taiwan, to the city of Taoyuan to be precise. The “peach garden city” (that’s the literal translation of the name), alluding to a story of an oath (桃園三結義) being taken amid peach blossoms by three friends (Liu Bei, Guan Yu, and Zhang Fei) and warriors from the Romance of the Three Kingdoms a famous novel written by Luo Guangzhong.

Taoyuan is a rather dull town, clad all in grey of the many concrete walls and high rise buildings. There is little public space and not much green.

However, the more significant seems the attempt of an eatery to built on that particular lack of nature in the town and use it to its own advantage: “Spring Farm” could be such a venture.

It might fall into the category of so called “leisure farms” which are a model to attract city people and offer them a kind of unique experience.

We went there on a rainy Saturday to have lunch after a long morning meeting discussing anthropological research and land tenure questions.

Spring Farm

I assume “the farm” was once at the outskirts of the city, and has now been “swallowed up” by urban sprawl.Set up a on a couple of acres of garden land, I would call it, it combines eating with other first hand benefits such as buying health food and ornamental plants from the producer. There is a lot of space around it where kids can play outside.

One of the sales rooms

When you enter, making your way from the car park to the main building, you do not get straight away to the restaurant but you are led through various sales rooms where various processed and dried foods, cookies, cake, bread, rice, oils, vegetables but also soap, fragrances and other odds and ends are on offer.

Shoppers paradise so to speak, all on your way to the dining room. It helps to acquaint you with what to buy on your way our.

Some veggie garden

From the dining room you can see a piece of garden where various vegetables are grown, a banana grove is seen in the back.There are a couple of different dining rooms, an indication that the number of people visiting is very large at times.

One of the dining rooms

The diners

Actually we were five people but I have only Prof. Yen Aiching, her son (left side), Prof. James Riddell and myself on this photo.

You order a main dish from the menu and get the entrée from a buffet type structure. here you will find a mix of Asian and European dishes and ingredients, and you can assemble a fusion first course for your meal.

Fusion appetizer

As you can see I went for a healthy appetizer selecting Asian and non-Asian ingredients.My main dish would be salmon which turned out to be very tasty. There were other fish dishes on offer as the one further below cooked on the table in a steam boat.

My main dish

Fish on a steam boat

The dessert

All in all the food was very good. The quality of the ingredients was excellent. The service very efficient. And the most important, we had a very relaxing time and great conversation over the dinner table. The only thing missing in my view was a good wine list. Instead various chrysanthemum teas were on offer. I guess that grape wine is not that high in demand.

On the way out we inspected the wares on offer which is always very educational. What products do people buy? These and other questions come to mind. Overall I think the concept pays off. Spring Farm tries to make a difference. It provides its customers which a unique experience in the middle of al large city.

Bread as in Germany

The bred counter made my German heart jump. There was so much on offer, amazing. In an Asian context bread has somehow an exotic flavour. In fact some of the creations can be quite surprising including non-traditional bred ingredients (such as green or red bean paste).

Various processed foods

Some dried beans etc.

The green house with ornamental plants

The porcelain dog says good bye (well he does not say that)

We had a great time. In Europe I would not patronize such a place but on Taiwan when all the time in the urban jungle, my soul was longing for some green, some plants, trees and fresh air.

PS: We found the place by searching the internet from a smart phone. Thanks for taking us Prof. Yen.


Lunch on the Mekong river

May 21, 2011

Welcome to my Saturday post. Behind me is a sign in Thai indicating that we are at the Mekong river.

Lunch at a “swimming restaurant” on the Mekong

Let me take you today to an exotic place on this majestic stream, where I had lunch with a couple of colleagues when I visited Udon Thani some time ago. I had to try some Isan cuisine which is not for everybody.

Come on to my boat

On the boat restaurant a large group of school children where having their lunch. They seemed to be on an outing together with their teachers.

The children were delightful

As I said before, 22 years living and working in Asia exposes you to interesting cuisines. I have eaten all kinds of food in my life but not one of the foremost delicacies of Thailand’s North-East: ants eggs.

In fact this cuisine tested my resilience.

An assortment of typical dishes

On the river you eat fish

Also soup is healthy

What would we do in Thailand without “som da,”?

So far so good

Almost all dishes contained the ants eggs sprinkled over them

They look well cooked, don’t they?

The ants eggs have a strong chitinous taste when you bite into them. It’s a strange feeling between the teeth too. In my body the chitinous inside of the eggs produced a tremendous amount of heat. I guess one has to be used to this kind of dish in order to fully enjoy it. My companions, almost all from the Udon Thani region, just loved the food.

By the way, we drank water with our meal, just clear water.

And the river flew.
Come to the Mekong.


Family dinner – Little Yering Cabernet Sauvignon

May 13, 2011

To find a wine for every day which goes with many different dishes, nothing fancy, just for a family meal, can be challenging. To my great surprise, Yering Station Winery from Yarra Glen in the Yarra Valley in Victoria produces just that kind of stuff with its “Little Yering” brand. Moreover, here in Bangkok you can get a bottle of Yering wine for a decent price.

Established in 1838 Yering Station was Victoria’s first vineyard. That’s a awful long tradition in an Australian context. I like the place, the winery and the cellar door as well as the restaurant. Despite the fact that the vineyards are mostly planted on flat lands, one has a good view from the terrace.

2008 Little Yering Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz

The ‘2008 Little Yering Cabernet Shiraz’ is a blend of the two red grape varieties, an Australian classic so to say. It cost about 18 A$ if bought at the cellar door. In Bangkok you can have it from Villa Market for about 560 Bath, about 13 Euro.

The wine is aged in mainly old oak casks after it has undergone a malolactic fermentation. The vines are of medium age (7-11 years). I like the intense taste of red berries and the spiciness provided by the Shiraz grapes.

Dark red colour

We had ‘malanzane alla parmigiana’ for dinner. The photo below does not do justice to this delicious Italian dish.

Melanzane alla parmigiana


From time to time I need a beer

May 7, 2011

Wine is a wonderful drink but many of my winemaker friends drink beer to clean their palates.

So do I.

And some foods cry out for a cool brew made of hops and malt.

Tooheys Red is one of my favourite beers when in Glenburn.

I am off to China today where facebook and blogging are stricktly controlled by the authorities. The Man from Mosel River will disappear from the bloggosshere for a couple of days.

See ya later, hopefully.


Progressive dining experience – do we need culinary art?

May 6, 2011

In today’s Bangkok Post a novel cuisine was described which is currently offered at the “Plaza Athenee Bangkok and Fin”, a place I have never heard of. According to the paper “Progressive dining experience” is a new gastronomic concept involving pop-up venues and somthing called “molecular cuisine”.

It promises an inventive, novel culinary adventure, something unique in Bangkok. The originators, Daniel Bucher and Axel Herz, are two young award winning chefs from Le Meridien in Hamburg.

But what is “molecular cusine”, “molecular cooking” or “molecular gastronomy”? Well, of course any cooking is “molecular” so to speak. According to Daniel Bucher it is “avant-gard culinary art combined with hard-core food science” presented in pop-up (impromptu) venues.

It is supposed to be what modern city dwellers want: sustainable, environment friendly, highest quality food for a competitive price in an environment with low overheads. It is supposed to provide creative freedom, fun and laughing and even “to make you love” food, I suppose.

The newspaer article does not provde any information about the price of the five course menu and the five wines which were part of the dinner.

Well, for an Epicurean like myself that should be the ultimate, should’nt it? If you eat for pleasure alone and not for nurishment, isn’t that the good life we are all striving for?

Despite the fact that I spent more time dwelling in big Asian cities than in rural areas, I am a country boy, and thanks god that. My type of food is not the deigner stuff you get in those modern restaurants. I want real food and not art.

You can find many of the meals I treasure here on my blog. But I am afraid that I have to go and taste for myself otherwise my criticism lacks a certain edge and the profoundness necessry to be credible.

As compensation, let me invite you to a glass of wine instead. My recommendation is, surprise surprise, a German Riesling, a ‘2009 Grans-Fassian Laurentiuslay GG’ by Grans-Fassian Estate in Leiwen, Mosel.

This is the best Riesling wine I tasted this year.


Mediterranean cuisine

April 30, 2011

Skewers of lamb on the “home” grill

Lamb is not necessarily everybody’s favourite. In my native Germany the consumption of lamb is about less than one kilogram per capita. Only in the 18th century lamb and mutton was the main meat consumed in German lands. Sheep meat has a bad reputation because most people do not know how to properly prepare it. That;s at least my understanding of the matter.

Since I marries Margit I have learned my lesson about lamb. It can be a wonderful dish, you just have to cook it in the right way and, I might add, with the right spices.

The finished lamb skewers

A nice salad with onions and some chilies

Also some rice

The coriander and the other “Southern” spices as well as the lamb itself call for a Mediterranean wine. So why not a Nero d’Avola from Sicily?

This red grape variety is the most important one of the island. The grape is used in blends and for the production of fortified wines. The ‘2009 MandraRossa Nero d’ Avola, IGT’ was just the right wine for that meal.

A beautiful colour of the Nero d’Avola

Wines made from the indigenous Nero d’Avola grape is sometimes referred to as the ‘godfather’ of Sicilian wine. The MandraRossa Estate is located near Menfi in the southwest of the Island. When I visited Sicily in 1988 (oh god that’s so long ago), my first and last visit of this splendid place, we did not go that far West.

The front label

The wine shows beautiful flavours of plum, is spicy and richly textured. The MandraRossa is not a blend but a single variety wine. In my view this is a wine for every day consumption. In the “Timo Mayer classification”, it would qualify as an “umpf” wine: a wine with guts. My verdict: get a bottle and enjoy.

The back label


Easter Sunday: Lunch at Bacco, Bangkok

April 26, 2011

No better place to go for a Sunday Easter family lunch than Ristorante Bacco, our favourite Italian restaurant in Thonglor, our old neighbourhood. We like real food with rustic charm and not the designer stuff, small bits of food looking like works of art on big plates.

Below you can see what we ate. First are the three antipasti we selected. Delicious.

Melanzane alla parmigiana

Carpaccio

Insalata caprese

All three antipasti on my plate

Our family consists of “traditionalists”. Three of us ordered gnocchi, the other main dish was tagliatelle with mushrooms in a creamy sauce.

Gnocchi

Tagliatelli delicata

How about the wine, you might ask. I love to order a simple ‘Primitivo’ (called “Zinfandel” in the USA) from Apulia. This time I selected a pricier wine than normal, a Primitivo made from 60 year old vines.

It turned out to be an excellent choice. The ‘2007 Primitivo di Manduria DOC’ by Feudi di San Marzano is a big wine (with 14.5% alcohol). The intense fruit aromas, plums mainly but also with earthy and spicy notes, had me forget that I was in the tropics.

Manduria is a town of about 30,000 inhabitant, about 30 km east of Taranto and about 14 km north from the Apulian coast. The place has a very warm climate.

The wine is made from 100% Primitivo grapes. One can sense that the vines are old, very old (sixty years, is what the label says). The bottles are also very heavy and old fashioned. I liked it, not wasting any thought about the carbon footprint.

2007 Primitivo di Manduria DOC

The back label of the Primitivo by Feudi di San Marzano

And after all this delicious food came the sweets or dolce as they are called in Italian.

Strawberries and cream

Pistaccio ice cream

Tirramisu

This was a very memorable Easter Sunday lunch. We had a great time with yummy food and delicious wine at Bacco. I will remember the wine and order it again.

If you need something special, and you do not want any more Thai food, have a break and eat Italian at Bacco. You will not regret it.

Address:
Bacco Osteria da Sergio
Sukhumvit Soi 53, Bangkok,
Thailand
Tel.: +66-2-662-4538
http://bacco-bkk.com


The “philosophers fish” with a St. Urbans-Hof Riesling

April 17, 2011

I love fish in all variations. “The Philosophers Kitchen”, a cookery book by Francine Segan offers great fish recipes. The red snapper in parchment recipe you can also find in my blog entry of 2007 titeled: A philosopher’s lunch.

Fish with olive and capers

Potato wedges

I had brought from Germany a great wine for exactly such an occasion, a ‘2009 Laurentiuslay GG Riesling’ by St. Urban’s Hof Estate in Leiwen, Mosel.

Refreshing 2009 Laurentiuslay GG Riesling

This grand cru Riesling is just wonderful. It not only scores high on Parker points but is a great example what top Riesling producers from the Mosel can do with this grape variety. The 2009 Laurentiuslay Riesling GG was one of the five best Riesling wines I tasted in 2010.

I can do only one more thing: suggest to you to get a bottle, soonest I would say.

The front label

The good news is that I have one more bottle in my fridge here in Bangkok, reserved for another special lunch with great food. Unfortunately, my fridge has no “magical properties”. I will have to bring more bottles from Germany via suitcase which is not very commodious.

Address:
St. Urbans-Hof Estate
Urbanusstraße 16
D-54340 Leiwen/Mosel
Germany

Tel.: +49 65 07 / 93 77-0
Fax: +49 65 07 / 93 77-30
www.urbans-hof.de

Winery’s opening hours:
Monday – friday: 9 am – 5 pm
Saturday: 9 am – 3 pm (on appointment)
Sundays and on holidays: closed


Old Man K and the Australian meat industry

April 15, 2011

A lone kangaroo on our dam

It is a very strange feeling when you realize that someone is watching you. You might have experienced this yourself. There is an urge to look up and there it is: someone is staring at you with an intensity which makes you feel the stares on your skin. If the other is a human being that’s one thing. But if this other is a kangaroo that’s quite a different story altogether.

It was the last day of our Christmas holidays and we were having a swim in our big dam. After the outside refreshment, we decided to have a kind of pick-nick under the lone tree next to the dam where we took refuge in the little shade the young tree could provide us with.

We chatted and had a relaxing time, suddenly we looked up and there it was: a big kangaroo stood on the bank of the dam watching us intensely.

The wind must have blown our way so that the kangaroo could not identify us. The ‘roo’ could also not see us, because we were sitting in the dark of the shade. It was very quiet and calmly went about its business. We were calm too, no words left our mouths, we just stared back, enchanted by the beauty of the bush.

It was a magic moment, Australian nature at its best, just the right encounter at a last day on the farm before returning to the bustling Asian city which we also call home.

It watched us for quite a while, then hopped along the dam, came down to the water, had a drink and disappeared into the bush and the little wood below the dam. We were enchanted. What a beautiful animal! What a wonderful moment!

Kangaroos are big “fellas”

Hopping along the bank of the dam

Have a drink in our dam

Time to move on

When I read in the International Herald Tribune an article on the prospects for the export of Australian kangaroo meat, I was reminded of the above encounter and its magic.

I am not a vegetarian nor someone who cannot live without a steak a day. The Kangaroo Meat Association of Australian, a lobbying group, hopes that global demand can be revived. After Russia banned the import of Australian kangaroo in 2009 the export of the marsupial’s meat had dropped significantly (from about 10,000 to 3,000 tonnes and from 36 to about 12 million A$).

Now there is some new hope that the Chinese, who eat everything with legs, except a chair and everything with wings except air planes, might develop a taste for the hopping marsupial. As always with the China market, export managers make up these wild calculations:

If every Chinese would eat xyz grams of kangaroo meat every, we could sell abc tonnes of additional meat. There are about 1.3 million Chinese consumers. And they hear in their inner ear the dollars chinking.

Last December a delegation from China visited Australia to look at kangaroo meat processing facilities. The industry is awaiting certification to be concluded in a couple of months so that the export of kangaroo to China can begin.

About 27 million kangaroos seem to roam Australian lands. The Australian Society for Kangaroos is not very happy with the prospects of increased exports of the marsupials’ meat. They see the meat unfit for human consumption and fear the extinction of the kangaroo in its natural habitat.

I had my first taste of kangaroo when I was a student at Bonn University. It was offered as a cheap meal in the student mensa. In the early 1990s, Michael, my brother-in-law, prepared a kangaroo steak for me on the ‘barbie’. I liked it and have had the occasional ‘roo’ here and there.

Actually, I find it a quite delicious meat and since I love other game, I love kangaroo too. That it should have a pungent flesh, I cannot confirm. It’s like other wildlife and since it is a herbivore, there is nothing wrong with the meat. My wife is still reluctant though. She vividly remembers her childhood when kangaroo meat was offered at the far end of the weekly food market in Adelaide as pet food only.

One ‘roo’ a year would suffice for our household, I think, if I could just shoot it on our farm from the existing stock. I hope the Chinese do not develop too much a taste for it, because domestic prices for the marsupial might go up. But whatever happens, happens.