Fire, fire, everywhere

February 8, 2009

Goodness me, after the heatwave came the fire and with it death and destruction. In short, it got really bad in rural Victoria. The current bushfires are the worst in Australian history. The fires have claimed about 84 lives (and the numbers are rising) and more than 700 homes so far, according to the news. Kinglake, just a couple of kilometres from Glenburn is completely destroyed. Some say, the same fate happened to Glenburn. The pictures on the websites are awful so are the videos. The testimonies of people show them devastated after the tragic loss of life and property.

We’ve been calling family and friends. So far so good. Let us hope for the best. Hope dies last.

I am feeling so stupid right now here in Bangkok, so stupid, unbelievable. Helpless, completely helpless. There is a song for this. Watch Crosby, Stills, Nash and Young with Joni Mitchell:


Restaurant Review: Giant Steps in Healesville, Victoria

February 5, 2009

A place which I love to visit whenever I can is Giant Steps/Innocent Bystander, a winery cum restaurant, bakery, cheese maker, coffee and sweats sellers as well as a fun offering place in the heart of Healesville, the picturesque little town in Victoria about an hours drive northeast of Melbourne.

Despite the huge hall with the public dining facilities, the wine tasting and other desks (to sell bread, sweats and so on), the place is quite cosy somehow. It’s a place for large family and other groups as well as for having a coffee or glass of wine by oneself. They have a German “kicker” game and other entertainment facilities. In the mornings you see many young mothers with their kids. Free wireless internet access is another bonus the place has to offer.

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The “hall” with tables and counters

It was of course packed with people in the pre-Christmas period when we came in. We went for lunch before heading home to the vineyard and decided on pizza. Ever since we have lived in Rome, Italy, we love thin pizza of the Roman type. My favourite pizza is the simplest one, a pizza margherita (that is it’s usual name) with just tomatoes and mozarella cheese and basilico.

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Pizza Margerita

The pizza served in Giant Steps/Innocent Bystander is quite nice, though not as thin as a Roman one.

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Tomatoes to be dried

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The pizza oven

Pairing pizza with wine is a tricky thing. The recent controversy of my fellow blogger Do Bianci with Dr. Vino is a case in point. I think Jeremy Parzen is mostly right. When we lived in Rome we had never pizza with wine. Beer was the usual drink. However, as with any food one can have wine with it. That applies also to pizza.

Frankly speaking, I drink whatever wine is offered with the pizza if in a friends home. In a restaurant my choice of wine depends on my mood. My mood told me wine, local wine.

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A sniff and a mouthful

I decided on a ‘2008 Innocent Bystander Pinot Noir’ which is not a complicated wine but rather young and fresh. As regards the pizza margherita there is a lot of cheese on it which might not go well with the high acidity of the Pinot since it destroys the “harmony”. However, the earthy character of the Pinot is what I think makes it somehow acceptable, at least to me.

On www.theworldwidewine.com there is a list which shows which grapes go with which pizza.

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The pizza-wine pairing suggestions

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Innocent Bystander Pinot Noir

The four of us we had a great time at Giant Steps/Innocent Bystander. I highly recommend to visit the place to any casual tourist. If in Healesville do as the Healesviller do!

Address:
Giant Steps Vignerons – Innocent Bystander Winery
336 Maroondah Hwy.
Healesville, Victoria 3777
Australia
Tel.: +61-(0)3-59626111

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A map


Impressions from Two Hills Road, Glenburn

January 28, 2009

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Road sign at the turn-off from the Melba Highway

This week a blistering heat wave is going through Victoria, the worst in the last 100 years. Temperatures will be as high as 40 to 42 degrees Celsius. The grapes are at risk to shrivel and loose bunch weight, and many of the vines will suffer, but hopefully we will not loose the fruit.

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Vineyard with the two hills in the background

Just two weeks ago, the grass in some paddocks was still green and we experienced one of the coldest Christmas in the last five years.

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The Chardonnay block needs slashing but the vines look good.

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The one year old Chardonnay vines look very healthy

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Beautiful hay

Our neighbour Hilary at the end of Two Hills Road had the best hay ever and harvested 600 bales.

The native plants around the house flowered beyond belief.

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And the people were merry and in a celebratory mood.

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Tables are set for food and drink

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Lucy, Michael, Helen, Charlotte and Margit

Hope you join us one day. Cheers


Sunday on the vineyard

January 4, 2009

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Two Hills Vineyard, Sauvignon Blanc

The flapping of birds wings against the window woke me up this morning. I helped the young swallows out of our shed by opening the back window. It was about a quarter to seven and I had to hurry because I had promised my daughter Charlotte to take her on a morning walk through the vineyards. She was already waiting for me. It was the last morning on the farm for my three women before they had to return to Bangkok.

It was a glorious morning. The sun was up and bathed the rolling green hills in its tender light. We did not have to walk long before we bumped into a Kangaroo family. The mother and joey jumped through the rows of our Pinot Noir, downhill to get away from us. We saw the two two more times. We walked over the second hill down to Katy’s creek and back to the shed. ‘Father and daughter talk’ all the way.

After breakfast, we packed the suitcases into our new pick-up truck and off we went to Melbourne airport. The girls were very sad leaving the vineyard behind but there was no way of extending the stay in Australia. I am the lucky one, having another week in Australia to do some more work in the vineyard and around the shed.

We had lunch at the airport, then came the time to say good bye (intense as always). The three went through the passport control and I turned around and went back to the farm. I love driving through the Victorian countryside but first I had to get out of town. Endless suburbs with houses on quarter acres blocks, industrial estates, junk yards, and other disturbing urban land use had to be traversed. But I knew the open countryside was waiting for me just after Diamond Creek.

I listened to Country (and Western) music, opened the window, arm out and felt like a real Australian country bloke. Samson Hill Winery was the first vineyard I passed, then came Christmas Hills and in no time I reached Yarra Glen. I did some shopping in the local supermarket.

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The old gum tree and the Chardonnay block

After I reached the vineyard, I took a rest during the hot hours of the day. It was the hottest day since a long long time. After it had cooled down, I worked a bit in the garden, then lifted fruit wires for about two hours in the Merlot, witnessed a glorious sunset, prepared dinner, drank a bottle of ‘2001 Two Hills Merlot’ and went to bed. It was the warmest evening so far. The quiet country atmosphere brought back the necessary peace of mind.

PS: I wrote this blog from my terrace overlooking the vineyard. We are connected, hurrah!


Upper Goulburn Wines Shine

January 3, 2009

In the summer edition of the ‘Upper Goulburn Food and Wine Cultural News’ newsletter also the wines from this rather new wine region (our wine region!) are mentioned.

One of the “popes” of the wine industry, James Halliday, has included wines from the Upper Goulburn Wine Region in his 2009 edition of the Wine Companion.

The following summary rates some of the regions wines:

2006 Barwite Upper Goulburn Riesling (87)

2006 Buller View Cabernet/Shiraz/Merlot (88 )

2006 Cheviot Bridge Yea Valley Shiraz (94)

2006 Delatite Polly Sparkling Gewuerztraminer (88 )

2006 Growlers Gully Shiraz (90)

2005 Jean Paul’s Vineyard Shiraz (94)
2005 Jean Paul’s Bold Colonial Red Cab/Sav (88 )

2005 Kinloch Wines Mary Friend (90)
2007 Kinloch Sauvignon Blanc (87)

2005 Lost Valley Thousand Hills Shiraz (89)
2007 Lost Valley Cortese (88 )

2004 Mount Cathedral Reserve Merlot (94)
2005 Mount Cathedral Reserve Merlot (90)
2005 Mount Cathedral Chardonnay (89)

2006 Mount Samaria Tempranillo (88 )

2006 Murrindindi Don’t tell your Dad Shiraz (89)
2006 Murrindindi Chardonnay (88 )
2005 Murrindindi Family Reserve Cabernet (88 )

2005 Myrtlevale Vineyard Cab/Sav (88 )

2006 Rubicon Lorna’s Vintage Chardonnay (88 )

2006 Sedona Estate Yea Valley Shiraz (90)

2005 Snobs Creek VSP Shiraz (89)
2006 Snobs Creek Dolcetto Syrah (88 )
2005 Snobs Creek Wooded Chardonnay (87)

2005 Tallarook Chardonnay (92)
2005 Tallarook Marsanne (90)
2006 Tallarook Rousanne (90)

The rating demonstrates once again that the wines from the Upper Goulburn Wine Region are of superior quality. Amzing is also the wide range of varieties and wine styles. It’s a pity that our wines were not included in the tasting. But we have been slack with wine marketing in Australia during the last 12 months.

While celebrating Christmas we tried for the first time a wine from Will de Castella, a ‘2006 Jean Paul’s Vineyard Shiraz’ (the following vintage of the above ’94 point wine’). What a fabulous wine this was. Intensive aromas of plum and blackberry filled our mouths. Our only regret was that we had only one bottle. I bought the wine in the Yea Supermarket (about 20 A$).

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PS: By the way, our wine growers association has upgraded its website. Please check it out, its much better than before: www.uppergoulburnwine.org.au


Welcome 2009

January 1, 2009

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Clouds over the hills around Healesville with mount St. Leonard (1028 m) to the left

As customary, we spent Christmas and New Years Eve with Michael, my brother in law, and his lovely wife Helen in their cosy family home in Healesville, Victoria. Boy did we have a great time. The time went by just too fast for the six of us.

The year 2008 is gone and with it the anxiety, the joy, the disappointments, the chagrin and the happiness. We deplore the losses, and welcome the changes.

The past year brought great changes to our family. We moved from Jakarta/Indonesia to Bangkok/Thailand, experienced a new job, a new school, a new environment, a new culture to get acquainted with and it will take us some more time to adjust, to understand, to appreciate, and to feel at home.

For 2009 our expectations are high. Our ambitions at Two Hills Vineyard are to continue to produce first grade fruit for excellent wines. Despite the loss of about 50% of our Pinot Noir grapes due to a severe frost at the end of October, we are very optimistic about the coming vintage. The Sauvignon Blanc fruit look very good, and our Merlot is in a good condition. The Chadonnay vines, now one year old, prosper and we have very few losses.

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Tasting the 2008 Two Hills Merlot with Alan Johns, owner and winemaker of Yering Farm Wines

Our 2008 Merlot also showed promising first results. At Yering Farm, we tasted the young wine from various barrels. The wine was fruity, had good structure for a medium bodied wine, and the tannins were just right. We hope it will mature nicely so that we can present our customers with another excellent vintage of our flagship red wine from Two Hills Vineyard.

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Two Hills Vineyard, Sauvignon Blanc (left) and Chardonnay (right)

Temperatures are low for this time of the year but we had some rains which helped to make everything looking very green. A little digging, however, shows that the soil is still very dry and that we urgently need more rains. The general drought has bot been broken as yet.

A new year means new opportunities. Also in 2009 grapes will be grown, wines will be made, and we will get ample material to apply our taste buds to. Sampling fine wines and enjoy them with good food, either within the family or with our friends, will be our prime pastime in the 12 months to come. Hope you can join us. Cheers and a happy New Year to you all.

PS: I write this new blog entry from our vineyard. Yes, we installed a broadband internet connection on the last day of 2008. From now on, I do not have to hurry to a wireless spot (35 km from here) or any other place with an internet connection. Blogging will take a new dimension. Hurray!


Back on the farm at last

December 16, 2008

You cannot imagine how good it feels to be back home on the farm in Glenburn, Victoria. This time of the year Two Hills Vineyard is at its best. The sky is blue, the sun is warm and the vineyard is “in full steam”.

And puffing along, I am enjoying rural life wholeheartedly. Rest assured I will taste some wonderful wines, have fun with my family and catch up with friends. There will be many memorable barbecues and lunches on the “lawn” on the farm. We will drink delicious wines and I will come back in 2009 well rested with a tank full of new energy.

The Man from Mosel River is also taking a break from blogging. I might go down to the “Innocent Bystander” in Healesville which has a wireless service and I might enter a post here and there but do not expect much.

I would like to thank all my blog visitors, readers and contributors for their interest in the affairs of the Man from Mosel River. I wish your and your families a relaxing Christmas season and a good start into the New Year. Have a glass of fine wine here and there. Cheers


Jewels of the Upper Goulburn Wine Region Part I.

October 31, 2008

Today, I want to start a new series and introduce to you some wine and grape producers from our wine growers association, the Upper Goulburn Winegrowers Association. I plan to feature three to four wineries and vineyards at the time. The selection is random. I will start with the wineries with open cellar doors. Of the 30 odd members of our association, about 9 belong to this category. Another 12 are vineyards which also produce some wine under their labels but conduct wine tastings only by appointment. All the others are fruit producers only and do not sell wines commercially.

The first cohort of wineries to be presented consists of Kinloch Wines, Rees Miller Estate and, a small boutique winery, called Rocky Passes Estate. I want to be honest with you. I have tasted wines made by Malcolm Kinloch (Kinloch Wines) and David Miller (Rees Miller Estate) but not the ones made by Victor Oles (Rocky Passes Estate). I have visited the two former wineries (and I know Malcolm and David) but not the latter.

But this is no impediment to write about all three of them. Anyway, we are going to visit Australia for Christmas and we might take this opportunity to get to know the Rocky Passes people.

I am starting with Kinloch Wines. Malcolm and Susan Kinloch have established a wonderful wine business. The vineyard is located in the Booroolite Valley, about 15 minutes by car from Mansfield (almost next to another famous winery of our region: Delatite Winery).

This year at the Federation Sq Showcase Series the Kinlochs were rewarded two gold medals, one for their “2004 Mary Friend Cabernets-Merlot Blend” and another for their “2006 Don Kinloch Sparkling white”. Moreover, the “Mary Friend” red was judged the Overall Best Red Blend in its class at the Award presentation for the Victorian Wine Awards.

2008 was a most unusual year in the Upper Goulburn. Kinloch Wines harvested a record 34 tons of fruit of outstanding quality. From the 2008 vintage three wines have been released so far (cellar door prices in brackets):
-Unwooded Chardonnay (A$ 18)
-Sauvignon Blanc, and (A$ 22)
-a first rosè (A$ 18) made from Pinot Meunier grapes.

I have tasted earlier vintages of the two white wines and they are delicious. When we visited Kinloch Wines in winter, one could see Mount Buller in a not so distant distance, all in white with a beautiful snow cap.

How to find them:
Kinloch Wines
In the Booroolite Valley, the cellar door is warm and friendly and offers gourmet luncheon platters on weekends and public holidays.
Address: 221 Wairere Rd, Boorolite – 15 minutes from Mansfield
Open: 10.00 am to 4.00 pm daily
Tel: 5777 3447
Email: info@kinlochwines.com.au
Web: www.kinlochwines.com.au
Contact: Susan and Malcolm Kinloch

Rees Miller Estate is the next winery in my cohort. Located near Yea – about 15 minutes drive on the highway to Alexandra/Mansfield – Sylke Rees and David Miller own and operate a fully certified biodynamic vineyard and winery. Today about 7 ha are under vines, the farm has a total of about 64 ha. Sylke and David are both very much committed to the protection of the environment, and the organic production of food. They intend to produce pure products for consumption in a way that supports the land and its people.

We got to know Sylke and David when our wine stall was just adjacent to theirs at the 2007 Alexandra Food and Wine Expo. David conducted a very interesting wine tasting, actually my first wine tasting at such an event, and Sylke sold the wines. When we visited their cellar door some time later, they were both on Christmas holidays. To my great surprise Rees Miller wines were available at our duty free wine store in Jakarta, and we did not have to suffer any shortages of their beautiful reds.

How to find them:
Rees Miller Estate
Fully certified biodynamic vineyard situated on the Goulburn Valley Highway, just east of Yea.
Address: 5355 Goulburn Valley Highway, Yea
Open: 10.00 am to 4.00 pm daily
Tel: 5797 2101
Email: info@reesmiller.com
Web: www.reesmiller.com
Contact: David Miller or Sylke Rees

The last vineyard in this first cohort of Upper Goulburn wineries with cellar doors is Rocky Passes Estate, a small boutique vineyard of about 6 acres (5 acres Shiraz and 1 acre Viognier) located in Whiteheads Creek, near Seymour. I only know their one-page website and their listing in our membership directory. Rocky Passes Estate is another vineyard dedicated to organic grape growing and wine making (there are quite a few in our region). Cropping levels are kept low (about 2 tonnes per acre). The cellar door was opened in 2006. The wines can be ordered by mail, phone or e-mail.

How to find them:
Rocky Passes Estate
Situated at the southern end of the Strathbogie Ranges, the wines are made using organic practices and biodynamic preparations.
Address: 1590 Highlands Rd,
Whiteheads Creek, Seymour
Open: Sundays 11.00 am to 4.00pm or by appointment
Tel: 5796 9366
Email: rockypasses@activ8.net.au
Web: www.rockypassesestate.com.au
Contact: Victor Oles or Candy Westney

I hope I could stimulate your curiosity. The Upper Goulburn Wine Region is a rural place with real people who love what they are doing, have passion for their wines and commitment to the environment.


The North-South Pipeline II: Liberal democracy at its worst

October 26, 2008

I am writing this piece from the city of Taoyuan on the beautiful island of Taiwan where I teach a course on “good governance in land administration”. Good governance is more likely to happen in a liberal democracy, but, it not always does. The desperate efforts of the Victorian government pushing the North-South-Pipeline project is a case in point. Components of good governance are transparency and participation, both of which are non-existent in the case of the pipeline project.

That politicians treat voters with contempt, is nothing new in emerging (young), transitional democracies. But that this can also happen in a well established and more or less functional system is quite remarkable. The current Victorian state government is a great show case for arrogance of the ones who govern vis-a-vis the governed. In its election manifesto before the 2006 election the Labour party claimed that they would not take water from the north of the divide if elected. Making and keeping promises is of course an entirely different matter. Democratic institutions and governing mechanisms guaranteeing, that the strong cannot push the weak around at will, seem to be out of order.

Many political analysts think that the government has deliberately misled the Victorian public in justifying the pipeline project (http://www.weeklytimesnow.com.au/article/2008/10/01/11821_opinion-news.html and www.weeklytimesnow.com.au/article/2008/10/07/13471_opinion-news.html).

That the labour governments does not give a damn for rural populations is nothing new. Their voters are mainly sitting in the metropolitan area of Melbourne. However, the way the Victorian government pushed its ambitious North-South Pipeline project through is worth analysing. Here, you can witness an ecological disaster in the making. If the 21st century has more of this to offer to us in rural Australia, one of the backbones of the Australian rural economy will go down the gurgler in the years to come. The rural-urban divide is widening these days.

A similar pipeline project for the rural towns of Ballarat and Bendigo (The Goldfields superpipe) incurring huge costs to the taxpayers has miserably failed. The simple truth is: “where there is no water, there is nothing to be taken” and therefore the pipeline remains mainly dry.

Moreover, private property rights are not well protected these days, it seems. The so called “public interest” overrules private rights and dispossess many. That’s also so in the pipeline case. At the end of September some of our neighbours (Deb McLeish and Deb Bertalli) protesting the “invasion” of their lands by pipeline workers were taken into custody by police. If the state would react like this vis-a-vis those gamblers (CEO’s, bank and fund managers, traders, speculators, at Lehman Brothers or AIG, etc.) who destroyed billions of wealth in the recent financial crisis, our jails would be full. But they all walk free, enjoying even bailouts paid for by the little guys and their taxes.

Grass roots initiatives such as “Plug the Pipe” have organised widespread protests but to no avail. The government’s slogan “Our water, our future” does not include rural residents, it seems. But rural Victorians cannot even say, “our water, Melbourne’s future”, because there is no water in the rural hinterland of Victoria. Lake Eildon is at 23% of its capacity and allocations are just 4%. Water restrictions in many rural settlements (97 rural towns and cities) and are on stage 4 and this not just since yesterday (since 2002). The city is thirsty. This year Melbourne consumes more water than all the Goulburn farmers use for irrigating their crops.

An article carried by The Age website today, discussed the findings of a confusing state government-commissioned report (by the Sydney based Institute of Sustainable Futures) which comes to the conclusion that Melbourne does not need any new water-saving schemes in the future because of the abundance of water sources. I wonder how that will happen?

Eildon reservoir dry like a bone

I came across an interesting website when participating in an e-democracy forum the other day. As a wonderful example of participatory democracy the city of Melbourne was praised. On www.futuremelbourne.com.au you can inform yourself about the vision the government has for the years to come. You can also participate in writing the plan of the town if you enter the wiki link. There are videos, maps, an e-village, and other things, state of the art, as far as modern participatory democracy is concerned, so you might think.

If the same method would have been applied when the North-South Pipeline project was in the making, the results might have been different. Instead secrecy, intrigue and deceit were the tools used by the Victorian government. Participatory democracy is only for those the government cares for but not us rural folks, that’s clear.

What does Melbourne want to become in 2010 according to the website?

A City for People
A Prosperous City
An Eco City
A Connected City
A Knowledge City
A Bold & Inspirational City

The same cannot be said about the rural areas surrounding the metropolitan area. They will be dried out so that Melbourne has sufficient water to become, let it slowly roll over your tongue, an “eco-city”.

Whow, that blows me away, really. It’s not easy to not turn into a cynic. I guess the Victorian government’s decision-makers should have sat in my classes on good governance here in Taoyuan. Though, I doubt it would have helped.


As the river….

October 24, 2008

Most German wine regions (not all) take their name from the river which runs through the territory planted with grape vines. This is true for the Mosel, Saar, Ruwer, Rhine, and Nahe to name but a few. Vine growing in my native Germany is intrinsically linked to rivers and river systems which is partly due to the availability of steep slopes catching the last beams of sun.

The village of Schoden at the Saar river, in the background, the location Ayler Kupp (photo taken from the location “Herrenberg”)

Recently my writing style has been characterized as “meandering” (by David Harden, thanks David) and meandering I do. In fact the purpose of my whole blog is meandering. Meandering between the old and the new world and its wines, meandering between my actual live in a big Asian metropolitan city and my desired live in a rural place in Victoria, Australia, meandering between the many identities I have acquired over the years working in Asia and my future as an Australian vintner and wine maker.

Wuerzburg at the Main river and its vineyards

The second part of the title sentence goes as follows: “…so the wine”. This is certainly true for Germany. I have to find a similar “alliteration” for Glenburn and the Upper Goulburn Wine Region.