Spring in Schoden, Saar

May 25, 2009

Spring was in full force when I visited Germany recently. The sky was blue and everything was fresh, a young green covered the land. As always I accompanied my friend Heinz on the hunt in Schoden, Saar. We took a tour around the 500 ha of hunting ground rented from the local land owners association (“Gehoeferschaft).

I took photos of the vines at “Herrenberg” one of the best terroirs at the steep hillside overlooking the Saar valley.

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The canes are bent down and arranged in a circle

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The Herrenberg vineyards are very steep

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The view downwards

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New shoots

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The flowers are almost ready

And guess what I found in my mothers cellar? A rare bottle of ‘2001 Two Hills Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc’.
The colour of the wine was still a splendid light straw, and it was drinkable. Of course it had lost its zest, almost no finish but it was still OK with my meal, I must say. A clean white wine.

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The “good” Lehmann and not the Lehmann brothers

May 23, 2009

While we were working on Thursday, May 21st. in Bangkok, our German colleagues were celebrating Ascension Day, also known as “Fathers Day” in my native Germany. “Father’s Day” is usually celebrated in the following way: young fathers, some older ones among them, and many other men, usually the ones who have not fathered any child they are aware of but eager to celebrate whatever comes their way, gather in the morning around a handcart loaded with all kinds of drinks and food. Then they set out and walk into the surrounding countryside to drink with their mates and have a jolly good, all-male time. Sometime they have a specific destination or they walk around a circuit. I will refrain from describing the usual end of these walks.

In short, the occasion warrants a special treat.

On this Father’s Day in Bangkok, I had the great pleasure of enjoying some hearty Italian meals, delicious pastas and insalata caprese and other delicacies. The rather colder nights in Bangkok, due to the beginning of the rainy season somehow incited in me the desire for some good reds; Australian was the natural choice.

Swirling College Wine

Peter Lehmann and his Shiraz wines seemed to be just the right stuff. Since wine prices are dear in Thailand we have to be careful with our choices.

Peter Lehmann is one of the few Australian vintners who became a legend in his own lifetime. Today, Peter Lehmann Wines in the Barossa Valley, South Australia is part of the Hess Family Estates with wineries in the Napa Valley, South Africa and Argentina.

Peter Lehmann Wines was established in 1979 as a response to the serious grape overproduction at the time (sounds terribly familiar in 2009 too). Most of the grapes come from about 185 contract growers. Only about 3% of the total wine output is derived from the self-owned vineyard (73 ha which is not small for a boutique vintner like me).

The Shiraz wines are the flagships of Peter Lehmann which assured me that nothing could go wrong.

We bought the following wines:

1. A ‘2006 Peter Lehmann Weighbridge Shiraz’
Peter Lehmann 2006 web

2. A ‘2005 Peter Lehmann Barossa Shiraz’
Peter Lehmann 2005 web

Both were “reasonably” priced for Thai conditions. The price for the bottle of Weighbridge Shiraz was about 700 Thai Bath (US$ 20 or € 14.6) and for the Barossa Shiraz about 1,000 Thai Bath (US$ 29 or € 20.8). Retail prices in Europe range from € 8-12 resp. € 15-17 or £ 6.50 and £ 7.50 in the UK. Interesting these price differentials. That’s the price of protectionism. Long live free trade.

Both wines went well with the Italian food. They had a beautiful dark red colour, were spicy and full of black fruit, plum in the case of the Weighbridge Shiraz. The 2005 Barossa Shiraz was “heavier” with lots of chalky tannins, a wine to be chewed so to say. We started with the 2006er bottle and went on to the older, in my view better, wine, which was absolutely the right choice.

I have not visited the Peter Lehmann winery in South Australia myself. The website is beautiful, informative and very enticing. I conclude: one should visit the place.

It takes about one to one and a half hours to drive to the winery from Adelaide Airport.

Address:
Peter Lehmann Wines LTD
off Para Road
Tanunda SA 5352
South Australia

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On the road again

May 21, 2009

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It was a gorgeous day when I drove from my home town Trier at the Mosel to the airport in Frankfurt. I passed through the hilly country called the “Hunsrueck”, a large plateau with deep forests and not-to-infertile plains where grains, maize and rape seed are grown. After a couple of kilometres clouds appeared and it started to rain.

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The yellow of the rape seed fields contrasted beautifully with the surrounding green of the grains, the grass and the trees. From the moving car I took a couple of shots to capture the contrast. Reality is almost always more beautiful than those quick digital camera shots.

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I had about two hours for contemplating about life, death and the universe. I love these rare occasions of introspection. I love the short life between the worlds, leaving Germany for the tropics of Thailand. Having left a world behind but not reached the desired destination, leaves me in a kind of vacuum, an emptiness full with feelings.

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The last leg of my journey led me through parts of the Nahe and the Rheingau wine regions. At this time of the year the vines appear tender and soft, near the flowering stage maybe, but the green of the leaves is still a light green.

The rainy season would wait for me on the other side of the world. Only the long hours in the narrow plane would be between “me in Germany” and “me in Thailand”, the past and the future, the wines of Germany and the wines of Australia and Thailand of course.

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Wine heaven – my visit to Berlin

May 16, 2009

Wineandcigar

During my brief visit to Berlin, I tasted quite a few fine wines. I do not want to bore you with long stories. The following three wines are, according to my taste buds, highly commendable.

‘2007 Sauvignon Blanc Baron de Philippe de Rothschild‘, Languedoc-Roussillion, France

I do not know much about French wines, but this SB is just perfect. I loved it with the fresh asparagus dish. It had all the varietal character of an SB and a crispness which blew me away. Very dry with wonderful passion and kiwi fruit aromas with a formidable minerality.

‘2006 Merlot Weingut Leopold Aumann‘, Tribuswinkel-Thermenregion, Austria

Austrian wines are the vogue in Germany (highest increase in exports to Germany this year). This Merlot by Leopold Aumann was an excellent example of the high art of wine making by our Austrian neighbours. I could not get enough of it, soft and full blown fruitiness.

‘2007 Künstler Kirchenstück Dry Riesling’, Rheingau, Germany

“Kirchenstück” is one of the oldest (1271 !!!!) and best “terroirs” of the Rheingau. This young and very dry Riesling is a wine with great finesse, filigree and a wonderful lingering finish. I am sure it will ripen well in the bottle and in your cellar. If you can get hold of some bottles: buy, buy, buy.

Soon more about fine wines. Germany is just a Mecca for wine lovers (so are France and Austria).

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Lunch at Lutter and Wegner in Berlin

May 15, 2009

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Some time ago when in Berlin I had lunch at Lutter and Wegner in Weinhaus Huth, near Potsdamer Platz. I love the atmosphere of this cosy little restaurant. Lutter and Wegner has two more restaurants I know of in Berlin, at “Fischerhuette”, at the very picturesque “Schlachtensee” (a lake within the city boundaries) and “Gendarmenmarkt” in the centre of town (but there is another one in Charlottenburg).

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I had ‘gnocchi with mushrooms’ which you can see in the picture above and drank a glass of the house wine, a Riesling from the Rheingau wine region. Needless to say the gnocchi were delicious and the wine was too.

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I sat next to the wall where all kinds of German wines were on display. This is why I show you the pictures below. All the good names of German vintners and wine producers were among them, Diel, Dr. Loosen, Joh. Jos. Pruem to name only a few and many others as you can see.

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Some time later, I learned from a city tour guide, that “Weinhaus Huth” (wine shop) used to be the place where Konrad Adenauer, the first German chancellor after World War II used to buy his wine.

In March 1877 the wine merchant Christian Huth bought the plot of land and built a villa there which housed also his wine business. The present building dates back to 1911/12 and replaced the villa. It consists of s steel-concrete structure so that the weight of the wine bottles could be stored. This structure protected it from the destruction of two major wars.

The building was the last old structure at the Potsdamer Platz and therefore it was called “the last house at Potsdamer Platz”. That was during the time of the cold war and before the wall came down. After 1989 and the reunification of Germany the Potsdamer Platz was again situated at the centre of the city and a building boom started. In 1990 Daimler-Benz AG bought the building. After renovation it was transformed so that again a restaurant could move in again, which is Lutter and Wegner. If you visit Berlin, I highly recommend that you visit “Weinhaus Huth” or any other of the Lutter and Wegner restaurants.

Address:
Lutter and Wegner im Weinhaus Huth
Alte Potsdamer Strasse 5
10785 Berlin
Tel.: +49-30-25294350

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Riesling from the Rheingau, Germany: Baltasar Ress “Von Unserem”

May 6, 2009

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Beautiful sole

Another delicious lunch. We had sole, asparagus and potatoes . The wine I had selected to go with the meal, I had found by accident in Tops supermarket in Thonglor, Bangkok. Frankly speaking I had never heard about Balthasar Ress and his wines.

From the website I learned later that the winery is managed by the 5th generation of the Ress family and that it had been founded in 1870. Unbelievable for us Australians. The estate is listed in the 2009 issues of the “800 Best Wineries in Germany” but rated as going donw in quality somewhat. Well, I cannot confirm this.

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As you know, I just love Riesling wines. For someone from the Mosel it is just heavan on a stick, paradise so to say. The dry Riesling which I selected, a bottle ‘2006 “Von Unserem” Balthasar Ress’ (11.5% Vol. Alc.) from the Rheingau, Germany was not cheap.

Thailand’s wine prices are high due to the tax imposed on imported wines. I paid about 1,000 Bath, which is a little more than 20 EURO whereas the same vintage can be bought in Germany for about 5.10 or so Euro. “Von Unserem” roughly translates into English stands for “of our own drop” indicating that the vintner and his family have made this wine to their preferred drink, solely for them, so to say.

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The quality of this dry Riesling is very good; the price in Germany very reasonable. Having access to it here in Bangkok is a treat, a wonderful thing and we enjoyed this bottle tremendously with our seafood meal.

The colour is light straw, the wine is zesty and fresh with beautiful citrus and tropical fruit aromas. It has structure and substance and a nice finish, lingering on for quite some time. Citrus bomb of the noble kind, I would say.

The next day we went back and bought all the bottles left of this wine on the shelf in Tops supermarket. Putting them into my wine fridge was a great satisfaction. More Sunday lunches with a good German Riesling wine are ahead of us. The good life, Epicurus would be proud of me. Life is just so beautiful.

If you visit the Rheingau, please check also out the villeages of Eltville and Hattenheim. It’s so beautiful there along the Rhein river. Indonesian colleagues I once took their thanked me from the bottom of their hearts and tears in their eyes. The term “paradise” comes to mind as the appropriate label.

Address:
Balthasar Ress
OT Hattenheim,
Rheinallee 7
65347 Eltville am Rhein
Tel.: +49-6734-91950
www.balthasar-ress.de

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Aythaya: Wine from Myanmar

May 3, 2009

myanmar

Nice peacock label

Did you know that also Burma (Myanmar) produces wines (some more “new latitude wines”, I guess)? Well, that’s an exotic place to grow the noble grape vine, isn’t it. We know of Burma only that it is a military dictatorship denying Aung San Suu Kyi the win in an election 20 years ago. Cyclone Nargis comes to mind and the devastation it brought to the Irrawadi delta. But grape wines and wine production?

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The wine from Myanmar

Watch out. My friend Wolfgang brought me a bottle of Myanmar wine, to be precise a bottle of ‘2006 Aythaya Myanmar Rose Muscat’. Grown in Aythaya village near Inle lake in the Southern Shan States at an altitude of 1,300 meters this rosé wine is produced by Myanmar Vineyards Estate Ltd.. It seems that a bunch of Germans up there is attempting to do the impossible and produce fine wines.

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The colour, a dark rosé

The plastic cork was not to my liking. The colour of the wine, a deep rosé, however, was quite appealing. A slight aroma of raisin (is it from the Muscat?), I thought to detect. The swish in the mouth was not what I expected. The bottle must have been exposed to some unfortunate conditions. I took a second sip. Not my wine, I must admit. No fruit, could be any liquid, I guess.

From the website of the estate I learned that the venture started in 1997 and that the first wine was made in 2004. Exports started in 2006 and put Burma on the world wide map of wine production. I hope my next bottle will be OK. The grape varieties grown are Muscat, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. Also a Grappa is produced. Unfortunately, one cannot access the references (articles in newspapers) given on the webpage. I will have to find out more about this vineyard. Stay tuned to Myanmar wines.

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Upper Goulburn Winegrowers Association, Victoria

May 2, 2009

For some time now our vintners and wine producers association has had a website, but it was work in progress and filled up only step by step. Now the webpage of the Upper Goulburn Winegrowers Association is completed and fully functional. I would like to invite you to check it out.

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I am very proud of this new piece of public relations and education. First of all I like the front page with its romantic touch. The subdued colours give it the historical foundation and substance which a new kid on the block usually seems to lack.

It’s typical Australian too since it tell stories, many different ones of the wineries and the other members of our organisation, the grape growers and the ones who do not have a cellar door.

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It tells us stories about the region, it’s soils, the climate, the grape varieties, the history and what one can do their in term of leisure and tourist activities. It carries useful information such as maps, news and events. It also features a “wine of the month” where one of the many excellent wines are presented to the public.

Come and visit us, first on the internet and then jump into your car and drive out to the High Country and meet the friendly vintners of the Upper Goulburn Winegrowers Association. See you soon.

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Charming Hotels in Asia: The Savoy in Yangon, Myanmar

May 1, 2009

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The entry to the hotel

Yesterday I got my visa from the Myanmar Embassy in Bangkok so that I can attend a meeting in Yangon next week. Last year I visited for the first time and stayed in a charming little hotel, called the Savoy.

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The reception area

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The rooms

I know there are many more charming places in Yangon. I love the Savoy’s colonial atmosphere, the transquility and the quiet. I alos liked the food and the wines. However, because of time constraints last time, I did not have a chance to talk to the cook. Why the cook you might ask? Well he is supposed to come from Luxemburg. That’s my Mosel neighbourhood. This time I am going to talk to him about food and wine.

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Restaurant at the second floor, Kipling’s what an enticing name.

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The Rossini, Italian restaurant at the ground floor

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The wine cabinet at the Rossini restaurant

The wine selection is quite interesting; I remember Italian, Chilean and Australian wines. I will check them out next week. I’ll tell you more after my return. Keep tuned in.

Please visit the hotel’s website for more information.

Address:
Savoy Hotel
129 Dhammazedi Road, Yangon, Myanmar
Tel: +95-1 526289 526298 526305
Fax:+95-1 524891 524892

Email: res-savoy@myanmar.com.mm
gm-savoy@myanmar.com.mm
Website: http://www.savoy-myanmar.com

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Anura Vineyards, South Africa

April 30, 2009

anura-web

At the recent South African National Freedom Day celebrations in Bangkok, of course South African wine was offered to the guests. All wines came from Anura Vineyards. I had never heard of this winery. The logo on the bottles carries a frog in the oval picture, therefore I guessed that this might be the meaning of “Anura”, and so it should be as I found out later from the Anura website.

The vineyards cultivates about 120 ha of vines and uses about 800 tonnes of fruit annually for its premium blends. Tymen and jenny Bouma are the owner-operators of the estate. The vineyard is located in Klapmuts, about 50 km North-East of Cape Town.

I had the chance to taste the following wines:

– Anura Pinotage, very nice, round and smooth (Top 10, ABSA Pinotage Award 2008)
– Anura Sauvignon Blanc, takes time to get used to, but after that very unusual white (Best Value 2009, Wine Magazine Best Value Awards)
– Anura Merlot, loads of red and black fruit, a hint of chocolate, medium-bodied (2004 vintage won two gold medals at Veritas Awards 2007)
– Anura Cabernet Sauvignon, a nice medium-bodied Cabsav, earthly and fruity (2004 vintage won silver at Veritas Awards 2007)
– Anura Syrah/Mourvedre, very unusual blend for me, powerful combination, spicy (2005 vintage won bronze at Veritas Awards 2007).

I might have tasted some others but cannot recollect the rest. The evening was just too wonderful with the performance of the three singers called “Three tons of fun”. The Ambassador and his wife danced and so did we. I wish more national days would be celebrated the South African way.

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