Wine Bars in Jakarta: Cork and Screw Wine Concept

March 24, 2008

It’s an unfortunate name, I agree, but the place is one of the most hip, the most vibrant and the most desirable place for a wine aficionado in Jakarta. It is a very relaxed place at the same time. Cork and Screw Wine Concept is a joint project of Vin + (one of the main wine shops in Jakarta, www.vinplus.biz) and other partners.

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We had the opportunity to visit it for the first time during their one-year-anniversary celebrations which were held recently. We liked the food and the wines and last Saturday was the perfect day to come back and visit again.

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One orders the food (provided by the KOI restaurant chain) and selects the wine from the many boxes where it is on offer at retail prices.

We had ordered dishes “around” beef tenderloin fillets and I selected a ‘2005 Clos de los Siete’, Mendoza, Argentina by Michel Rolland. This wine has 14.5% alcohol and is a blend of different varieties (on the back of the label it said, 45% Malbec, 35% Merlot, 10% Cabernet and Shiraz each) by Michel Rolland. His wines from Argentina have already earned a reputation and the 2005 we sampled was awarded 90/91 points by some wine tasters.

Michel Rolland (born 24 December 1947) is the foremost wine consultant from Bordeaux with more than a hundred clients all over the world. He owns several vineyard and winery properties in France (Bordeaux, Saint-Emilion, Fronsac), South Africa, Spain and Argentina.

The Clos de los Siete is a collaborative project of seven French wine producers under the leadership of Michel Rolland. They have collectively about 850 ha of which about half is currently under vines. Malbec is the dominant variety planted.

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The label shows a star with seven points representing the seven partners in the venture.

The price was 364,000 Indonesian Rupiah which corresponds to about 25.7 € (about 41 US$). When I researched it on the internet the next day, I found that it is sold in the UK for about 12 £ and in other places in Europe for 13 €. The taxes in Indonesia are high, so I did not mind the retail price at Cork and Screw.

According to information from the net, the grapes are handpicked and sorted twice, both before and after destemming. The grapes are cold soaked in steel tanks and fermented for five to seven days at 26 to 28 degrees. After malolactic fermentation, about one third of the wine is matured in vats and the rest in new French oak barrels. The grape mix for the 2005 vintage is sometimes also given as 40% Malbec, and 20% each for Cabernet, Merlot and Shiraz. May that how it be.

I know that generally Malbec does not possess a strong finish; it is rather short at the end. I hoped that in this blend that would be less of an issue but it was not. I still liked the wine but should have chosen something with a stronger, and longer finish.

The wine is elegant, dry, full bodied with a moderate amount of tannins and generally well balanced. It displays aromas of plum, blueberry, chocolate and violet notes. However, its finish is anything but long. So nothing lingers around on the palate, which is a pity. Maybe a less of Malbec grapes in the blend would improve this deficiency.

The evening at Cork and Screw was a delight. I can only highly recommend the place to all the Jakartan wine and food lovers. See you there, hopefully soon.

Address:
Cork and Screw Wine Concept
Wisma Kodel, Ground Floor,
Jl. H.R.Rasuna Said Kav.B-4,
Jakarta 12920
Ph.: (021) 5290 2030.
Open: 12.00 – 24.00 WIB (Sunday-Thursday) and 12.00 – 02.00 WIB (Friday-Saturday).


Easter Sunday Lunch

March 23, 2008

Easter calls for some special celebrations. Because we were at home, the four of us for the first time since a long time, we needed something yummy.

We had a red snapper left in the fridge and decided to prepare it in the style of Guadeloupe and Martinique. The recipe we got from Mark Bittman, “Fish – The complete guide to buying and cooking”, Hungry Minds Co, New York 1994, and it goes as follows:

– 4 firm-fleshed steaks from a large red snapper, scaled, gutted (head on or off as you like it best)
– 2 cups of water
– 1/2 cup fresh lime juice
– salt
– 1/4 cup olive oil
– 1 cup chopped shallots, scallions (both green and white parts)
– 1 tablespoon minced garlic
– 1 hot pepper, deveined, seeds and chopped
– 1 1/2 cups chopped fresh tomatoes,
– 1 bay leave
– 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
– 1/2 table spoon minced fresh thyme
– freshly ground black pepper
– lime wedges

You marinate the fish in the water, lime juice and 1 table spoon of salt (make sure the fish is completely covered) for about 30 minutes (drain, refrigerate if the weather is too warm, as it is here in tropical Jakarta).

Heat the oil and cook the shallots, about two thirds of the garlic and the chopped red pepper until soft, then add the tomatoes and herbs, season with salt and pepper and cook for about 5 minutes. Drain the fish and add the above together with some of the marinade, add some more garlic and simmer over low heat for about 10 minutes. Spoon the marinade over the fish and serve with rice and the lemon wedges.

Voilá, that’s what it may look like.

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Court Boullion, red snapper

Needless to say, the red snapper was delicious. We had rice and some steamed vegetables with it. Since we ran out of white wine (how terrible in a vintner’s family), we opened instead a bottle of Pinot Noir. It came from South Baden (Kaiserstuhl), a ‘2005 Ihringer Winklerberg Spätburgunder’, dry wine, 13.5 % alcohol, produced by the Ihringer Winegrowers Co-operative (www.winzergenossenschaft-ihringen.de).

It was a typical Pinot Noir as far as the colour was concerned. It was fresh, fruity and showed well balanced tannins and acids. The aromas were dominated by forest berries. But despite this it complemented the hot chili taste of the red snapper very well.

The bottle was given to me by Birgit Lamm, the director of our International Academy for Leadership in Gummersbach, Germany after I facilitated a training recently. It did not last long. But wine in the tropics needs to be consumed rather earlier than later. Thanks again for this nice gift. I’ll come back for more soon.

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2005 Ihringer Winklerberg Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir)

After the meal we had espresso and cognac together with some thin chocolates. I smoked a Juan Clemente cigar (made in Santiago, Dominican Republic) which was excellent. I had acquired them during my recent trip to my hometown Trier, Germany, from Wolsdorff Tobacco where I usually stock up on cigars.


Habel Wine Culture

March 20, 2008

The other day in Berlin a shower drove me into the next available shelter and fortunately it was a wine bar: ‘Habel Weinkultur’, where I always wanted to visit (www.wein-habel.de).

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The place is huge with various rooms and bars. It is also a place with tradition. Habel attempts to revive the old tradition of Prussia’s wine tasting. Originally it was located at Unter den Linden 30 were it was opened in 1779!

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The elegant dining and tasting rooms of Habel Weinkultur

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I was the only customer at 15:00 h in the afternoon but I was lucky again, they served customers.

The wine list was beautiful, however, a single person can only drink wine ‘glass wise’ and not by the bottle. I have to come again, I thought, with a friend to sample some of these wines. The food menu looked also very inviting. A good place to visit in Berlin.

I settled for a Riesling of course, this time I choose a Riesling from the Rheingau, one of the best German wine regions, a ‘2005 Riesling Schloss Vollrads’ (4.70 €/0.2 ltr.), a dry wine with a lush bouquet of apples (not a citrus bomb), fruity, well balanced acids, fresh with a nice finish.

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When I studied the wine list I found that it contained many wines from Germany, France, Italy, Austria, Spain, Chile, Argentina and South Africa but only one single wine from Australia (a Penfolds BIN 2 Shiraz Mourvédre).

Of course with a wine from Penfolds you cannot go wrong but apart from the corporates there are zillions of excellent wines from small wineries and vineyards which would deserve to be sampled by the German wine lovers.

Address:
Habel Weinkultur
Luisenstrasse 19
10117 Berlin
Ph.: +49-30-28098484


Being Irish for a day

March 17, 2008

I love the Irish and of course Ireland.

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When Noreen Seward, the president of the St. Patrick Society in Jakarta (www.stpatricksjakarta.org), opened the annual St. Pat’s Ball last Saturday and invited the odd 500 invitees to all be Irish for the event, Margit and I joined in wholeheartedly, as always, I might add.

What a night this was. The food at the Jakarta Ritz-Carlton Hotel was extraordinarily good. It consisted of the following dishes:

– Donegal Tuna Tartar with Fried Capers, Sticky Rice and Avocado Coulis
– Orange Campari Sorbet
– Duet of Irish Tenderloin with Mustard Seed Crust and Stuffed Chicken Breast ‘Pratai Calisle’ and Root Vegetables
– Apple tart with Vanilla Custard
– Coffee, Tea or Irish Coffee
– Petit Fours

The wines, a white and a red, were provided by Vin + Wine Boutique and were solid French wines from Bordeaux. After midnight a potato and leek soup was provided.

The entertainment was Irish dances and later an Indonesian pop band played contemporary tunes and brought everybody in the room to their toes.

Six well distinguished Irish dancers of a group called ‘Celtic Rythm’ performed spectacular Irish dancing. They came all the way from Dublin (thanks to the support of Etihad Airways, the National Airline of the United Arab Emirates). The four women (Linda Masterson, Louise Corrigan, Anne Collins and Laura Harrington) and two men (Christopher Mckenna and Kevin Curran) did a great job in enthusing the crowd.

Moreover, two groups of young dancers, all trained by Alison Forrow, also showed their skills. It was lovely to see those 8-9 year olds dance the traditional dances. They were so serious and diligent. What a delight.

We made it home in the wee hours of Sunday morning, enchanted, exhausted but utterly happy. Cheers to St. Patrick.


Back home again

March 15, 2008

Two weeks is a long time. My return to Jakarta had to be celebrated. We cracked a very special bottle. Last year at the Alexandra Food and Wine Show, Tim and Caroline Miller from the Henke Winery gave a bottle of ‘1997 Shiraz Cabernet’ to us when we all swapped bottles after the show.

I had brought it with me to Jakarta. We opened it and needless to say, it was delicious. Just the right wine for coming home. It’s a 84-16 blend. The wine is made in open fermenters in a mix of traditional and modern technology. Then it matures in American oak puncheons and is cellared for a couple of years before release. Henke wines are made in an old traditional Victorian style not easy to find these days.

The ‘1997 Shiraz Cabernet’ is a full bodied wine with an intense fruit character. One can almost taste that the cropping level is low and the wine is made from old vines.

Henke was the first vineyard and winery established in the Upper Goulburn Wine Region (www.uppergoulburnwine.org.au). Its Shiraz and Cabernet vines were planted at Yarck on the lower slopes of the Black Ranges (at about 230 meter elevation) between 1968 and 1970. The first vintage was made by the founder, Herb Henke, in 1974. Unfortunately, Henke has no webpage, you have to make appointments by phone. It’s worth visiting them. Tim and Caroline Miller are lovely people and produce stunning wines. The countryside at Yarck is also lovely and only about 1 1/2 hours away from Melbourne.

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Address:
The Henke Winery
175 Henke’s Lane
Yarck, Victoria 3719
Ph.: 03-57976277


9. Wine Rally – Wines for every day

March 8, 2008

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Sorry folks, but this time it does not work. I cannot avoid to write pro domo. The wine I drink every day, is our own. I have to add that this only applies if we are in Glenburn, Victoria. In the past we had once the opportunity to import our own wine for private consumption in Jakarta. But ever since, due to the vagaries of importing into Indonesia, we were not in the position to establish Two Hills as a ‘house wine’ for everyday consumption.

At Two Hills Vineyard we have so far made two varietal (single vineyard) wines from our grapes:

– a single vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (2000, 2001 and 2002 vintage) and
– a single vineyard Merlot (2001, 2004 and 2006 vintage)

Thomas Weber (www.wein-als-geschenk.de) wrote the following tasting notes for the ‘2002 Sauvignon Blanc’:

“Dezent hellgruener Farbton, Holunder- und vor allem Stachelbeerenaromen vor einm rauchig minieralischen Hintergrund. Kraftvolle lebendige Saeure und ein langer fruchtiger Abgang.”

In English this might read as follows:

“Subtly light green hue, elderberry and especially gooseberry aromas before a smoky mineral background. Powerful lively acids and a long fruity finish.”

And the ‘2004 Merlot’ was described by Thomas as follows:

“Der blutrote Wein duftet aus einem eleganten ausdrucksvollen Koerper vielschichtig nach reifen Waldbeeren. Eine angenehme Saeure vor fein ausbalancierten kraeftigen Tanninen fuehrt zu einem langanhaltenden Finish.”

which translates into:

“From an elegant complex expressive body the dark red wine shows aromas of mature berries. Pleasant acidity before finely balanced tannins, leads to a long-lasting finish.”

Well, thats what Thomas wrote for a blind wine tasting in Trier last year. Since I drink it every day (unfortunately, when I’m in Australia only), usually with a meal (lunch or dinner), I lost the ability to describe the wine anyway.

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This is were we drink most of our wine. On the space at the entrance, I hesitate to call it terrace, of our little house cum vineyard shed. Apart from drinking Two Hills wines, we drink our friends wines. Usually, we swap cases of 12 bottles. We swap with Gayle Jewson and Steve Sadlier.

Gayle has a small vineyard in front of her house in the Yarra Valley, in fact just a couple of acres of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The Pinot is a “cleanskin” (Gayle has no label as yet) and it is called ‘Pip’s Paddock Pinot Noir’, a wine which can only be bought directly from Gayle.

The other house wine, we consume, is from Steve. His vineyard is called Nenagh Park. He is mainly a contract grower (about 9 ha under vines) for Yering Station and other well known wineries in the Yarra Valley. Steve’s Chardonnay is to die for, so is his Pinot Noir. He sells his wines (cleanskins) without label to friends and through a private network. Watch out for Nenagh Park in the future.

Visit us, and I will serve you all these wines. Promise.


On the road again

February 27, 2008

I am on my way to Europe again. My last evening at home in Jakarta we spend with a bottle of ‘2005 Understudy Cabernet Petit Verdot’ from Pertaringa Vineyards, a winery in the McLaren Vale, South Australia.

I bought it in our local duty free shop at Jalan Fatmawati for US $ 15.50 and its a ripper of a wine with a great quality-price ratio.

It is made of 70% Cabernet and 30% Petit Verdot grapes, traditionally vinified and matured in French and American oak. The ‘Understudy Cabernet Petit Verdot’ is Pertaringa’s “second wine” after the flagship reds (Pertaringa’s Rifle and Hunt Cabernet Sauvignon).

The wine has a dark red colour and a very intense nose of blackcurrant. It is spicy and rich in flavour, has a good structure, length and a long finish. needless to say that it won a couple of awards in various wine shows.

Pertaringa is not exactly a small vineyard (www.pertaringa.com.au). It has 31 ha under grapes, most of it Shiraz (13 ha), but also Chardonnay (4 ha), Pinot Noir (4.5 ha), Riesling and Semillon (3 ha each), and smaller areas of Cabernet, Sauvignon Blanc and Frontignac. The vineyard was planted in 1970 and purchased by Ian Leask and Geoff Hardy in 1980. Ever since it’s been run by them and their families. Pertaringa is an Aboriginal name and means ‘belonging to the hills’.

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Understudy Cabernet Petit Verdot

Address:
Pertaringa Wines
Conerner of Hunt and Rifle Range Roads
McLaren vale
South Australia 5171
Ph.: +61-8-83238125
Cellar door open seven days a week (Mon-Fri 10am-5pm, rest 11am-5pm)

PS: I’ll be gone for a while. Please leave messages.


Ghin Ghin Olive Grove

February 26, 2008

What an exotic name, you might say: Ghin Ghin. Its the place name of a location a couple of kilometers West of Yea, a charming country town of about 1000 inhabitants (about 28 km north of our vineyard), a little more than an hours drive northeast of Melbourne, Victoria.

To tell you the truth. We went with what Australians call “a ute” (a utility vehicle) to the tip near Ghin Ghin to dispose of some old stuff we had cleaned out of our shed.

Near the turnoff from the main highway (along the Goulburn Valley Road towards Seymour), the Ghin Ghin Farmstore and Café (www.meetthemaker.com.au) is located.

The beautiful Victorian cottage contains a small café where you can also buy various local products including extra virgin olive oil and olives coming from the olive grove behind the cottage where about 650 trees are planted.

The cottage used to be a stable located on a dairy farm which has been in the hands of the Lawrance family for over 70 years. Scott Lawrance and his partner Frank Schoenemann run the Farmstore Café open from October to May.

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A young olive grove in Central Victoria

We dropped in by chance, had an interesting chat, an enchanting encounter and left enriched by a couple of olive oil bottles and preserved olives. Next time we are in Glenburn, we will spend some more time to check the place out.

Address:
Ghin Ghin Farmstore and Café
211 Ghin Ghin Road
Yea, Victoria
Ph.: +61-3-57972734

PS: Olive trees are very much in vogue in Australia. One can see olive groves in all parts of the country. We at Two Hills Vineyard have planted about 100 trees and intend to produce olive oil as well.


Sunday lunch the Roman way

February 24, 2008

We had a ripper of a lunch today, incredibly delicious, I tell you.

Do you know “The Philosophers Kitchen”, a wonderful cooking book ? Francine Segan has done a great job bringing to life recipes from ancient Greece and Rome.

You will not believe me, we had salmon with rasberry glace. Fish with a fruit sauce, you might ask? And you are right, I was sceptical as well but it’s an incredibly wonderful dish.

We had three more dishes from this cookbook though with some variations because we could not get all the necessary ingredients in Jakarta. The fish was served with rice and cucumber salad with coriander vinaigrette (Pythagoras suggested this dish) and a mushroom dish, ‘field and forest salad’.

First I though of a white wine, maybe a Chardonnay, but then I changed my mind and chose a Yarra Valley ‘Gulf Station Pinot Noir’ from the ‘Australian Winemaker of the Year 2007’, Steve Webber of DeBortoli Wines in Dixons Creek, a wine readily available from the duty free shops in Jakarta. It complemented the food perfectly. The rasberry sauce and the dark forest fruit aroma of the wine matched perfectly.

Here are the recipes (in abbreviated form):

You start with the ‘rasberry glaze’ ( a fruit sauce).

Heat 2 medium shallots in a pan in which you have heated 2 tablespoons of butter on low heat until the shallots are softened, add 1/2 cup of vinegar (ideally rasberry vinegar which, but we did not have this and used apple cider vinegar quite successfully), add 1/2 pint of fresh rasberries (frozen ones might also do, but the fresh stuff is much better) and cook for about 15 minutes. Then you have to press the liquid through a filter so that the solids can be removed, add a tablespoon of honey and some butter and keep the glaze warm.

Then you prepare the salmon (steaks or fillets) which need to be seared in hot olive oil.

The cucumber salad is made from European cucumber (cut very small, maybe graded in a food processor) with 2 ounces of feta cheese, 1/4 cup of heavy cream, add fresh cilantro leaves, some muscatel or sherry vinegar, coriander, extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice, a table spoon of honey, salt and freshly milled pepper (and golden raisins if you like, which we did not do).

For the mushroom salad we used fresh ‘portobello’ and enotaki mushrooms which were served in a olive oil vinaigrette with forest and garden herbs, freshly milled pink pepper and 2 tablespoons of finely chopped pistachio nuts.

The rasberrry sauce and the salmon harmonise wonderfully. It’s also a delight for the eyes, these colours are amazing. I tried to take photos and hope you get an idea what was served.

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The salmon with the rasberry glaze

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The mushroom salad

As you know, I am not the cook in our family. Margit surprised us all with these dishes. When she told me about it earlier, I somehow did not pay attention. But boy was that a delicious meal. If the old Romans ate like that, I would not mind having been born 2000 years ago. If you happen to visit us, we might surprise your tastebuds with salmon and rasberry sauce.

I wonder which Italian wine would have harmonised with this meal. Steve Webber’s Pinot Noir from the Yarra Valley was good enough and helped ‘to reach out’ from the old to the new world.

Well, I did not have access to any good bottle at the time, but maybe you can help me. Looking forward to your wine suggestions.


Giant Steps – Innocent Bystander

February 20, 2008

As promised ealier, here is my log entry about Giant Steps which is also known as Innocent Bystander. It is the most amazing new winery in the Yarra Valley. Wines under the Giant Steps label were released in 2001. But the new winery building was only opened in 2006.

It already earned very favourable critiques and the wines of course won quite a few awards and medals. A select Yarra Valley red wine tasting (all reds except Pinot Noir) late last year – by Gourmet Traveller Wine Magazine, December/January edition – (http://gourmettravellerwie.com.au), for instance, ranked the ‘2006 Giant Steps Miller Vineyard Shiraz’ (92 points) and its 2005 Giant Steps Harry’s Monster’ a blend of Cabernet Sav., Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc (89 points) quite highly.

Actually Giant Steps – Innocent Bystander is not only a winery but also a restaurant, café, bakery, meeting place, etc. in the heart of Healesville, the charming rural town about an hour away north east of Melbourne. Phil and Allison Sexton, the owners, deserve great praise for having the courage to establish such an enterprise, the merging of an industrial work place like a winery with the inviting hospitality necessary for a café-bistro.

I had the opportunity to visit it twice during our recent Christmas vacation and had a great time there. First of all, its the only place I could find where I was able to surf the internet wireless with my laptop. Great. Second, the food is very delicious (people seem to love the pizzas) and so are the wines.

The modern interior leaves space for tranquility as well as play. We loved, what Germans call, a “kicker”, a kind of table soccer-machine, which invites for exciting competitions. For me the wireless internet access was such a bonus. Nowhere else could I update my blog in Healesville more easily.

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Any time of the day is good to visit. You can have breakfast there from 10h onwards (many young mothers with their babies came) and enjoy the open atmosphere or you might opt for a meal or a drink later in the day. We came for breakfast. The coffee was delicious and the cakes were a culinary delight. But I also tried a ‘2007 Innocent Bystander Pinot Gris’, a very young and refreshing wine, with hints of citrus, dried pear and apple aromas, crisp on the palate with a dry finish.

Prices are reasonable given the location (Yarra Valley and Healesville). The wines under the Innocent Bystander label (sourced mostly from contract vineyards in the vicinity) for instance Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir or Shiraz Viognier sell for 20 A$/bottle. Trophy winners of the Giant Steps label are a bit more expensive (30 – 45 A$/bottle). The grapes for these wines come from single vineyard sites in the Yarra Valley either owned by the Sexton’s themselves or from long-term contracted growers. The winery and its wine maker, Steve Flamsteed, are proud of its new ‘sweat’ wine creation, a ‘2007 Innocent Bystander Pink Moscato’ (375 ml).

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The entrance of Giant Steps – Innocent Bystander

The architecture of the place is also stunning. Its housed in an modern-industrial type of building. Its been designed by architect Martyn Hook of Iredale Pedersen Hook. The building consists of a steel structure with blends of wooden slates. There are also a lot of concrete walls. The substantial complex located at the thoroughfare of the small country town is a perfect blend of functionality with hospitality.

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The side view of Giant Steps: winery side from the parking lot

The name! Of course, I forgot. It comes from the John Coltrane jazz album and stands for the ‘giant step’ the owners took in selling their successful vineyards in Margaret River, Western Australia and moving to the Yarra Valley in Victoria to start all over again.

Hope you have a chance to check this place out.

Address:
Giant Steps – Innocent Bystander
336 Maroondah Highway,
Healesville, Victoria
Ph.: 03-59626111